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参加活动----A&F-- 很 很暴利(竣坑) (P2-P4)

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参加活动----A&F-- 很 很暴利(竣坑) (P2-P4)

已奖


 


 


一楼留给版版


 



全文在11F-38F


 


累趴我也,感慨:挖坑是很难的,填坑是更难的。[em112]


 


鉴于此贴偏理论派,欢迎其他mm再写实践派的version.


 


帖个logo


[upload=gif,abercrombie_logo.gif]UploadFile/2008-7/200872020112213898.gif[/upload]


 


 


此处有麋鹿出没
[upload=gif,moose%20wallpaper.gif]UploadFile/2008-7/200872020143130840.gif[/upload]


 



[upload=jpg,shopping_bag1.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/200872020143123383.jpg[/upload]


[此贴子已经被mousey于2008-7-20 21:14:32编辑过]

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A&F- 很   很暴利[em71]


 


A&F的历史太长,现在我们所知的A&F和其创建之初的品牌定位风马牛不相及也。


 


A&F的广告:基本可以拍成一部电视剧《Sex and the Youth》, 这就是所谓cool的美国主流青少年文化吧,包括追求social,就和《Gossip Girl》中所体现的一脉相承。


 


One in 4 Teen Girls Has a Sexually Transmitted Disease


Greatest burden falls on African-American adolescents, CDC researchers find


http://www.healthscout.com/news/68/613456/main.html


girl如此,boy可想而知。


 


A&F 广告的常用元素:海边, 裸露, 暧昧,黑白画面


 


A&F 店员:不是给你提供销售服务的,而是活体模特,让你觉得好玩、好看的。不求有经验、态度好,只要求sexy, 养眼。


 


A&F服装种类:就这么几种,每季都差不多,就是小变化。从好的方面来说就是你买了一件,只要A&F没过时,就永远不过时。


 


假设去掉A&F所有的包装,单从衣服而言,款式和质量也还可以,就是过于Overprized (很暴利)。那么那些price premium 付到哪里去了呢? 应该是付给Bruce Weber拍艺术广告了吧。金牌摄影师就是不一样,这是比明星+photoshop远远强大的武器啊。


 


A&F的其他marketing手段包括:电台、还有流行歌曲中“喜欢穿A&F的女孩”(忘记是哪首了,从case上看来的)、还有无休止的争议、抗议(包括来自律师协会、家长、女性主义者、同性恋、少数族裔等等)。毕竟对于marketing而言bad news is better than no news.


 


A&F和星巴克一样卖得不是实物,而是氛围、理念,就是卖cool.


 


 


唐僧至此,电梯如下:


 


12F: 开场白


 


1. 品牌故事:


13F: Abercrombie & Fitch的历史


14F: 闲话版历史 & 历史图片


15F: 小插曲 & 古董catalog 和 50年代的A&F服饰


16F: 重生与崛起


17F: A&F背后的men


18F: Lifestyle brand和不断的麻烦


19F: 歧视亚裔的Tee


20F: 遭家长抗议的kids thong


21F: 很 很暴露的catalog


22F: 歧视女性的tee,尤其是brunettes


23F: 种族歧视的招聘政策


24F: Obama门事件


25F: 兄弟品牌


 


2. 大致价位和购物策略


26F: 价格和促销


 


3. 购物指南


27F: tips 1-6


 


4.实物图片:


28F: 港台明星穿A&F


29F: 韩国明星穿A&F


30F: 店面装璜


31F: 店内设置


32F: 官方model照


33F: 亚裔model照


34F: 网络卖家照


35F: 百老汇剧照


 


5. 真人搭配


36F: No $ No Car No Chance


37F: 天鹅肉乎?


38F: 全家福


 


The End


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 20:20:13编辑过]

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开场白: 像我这样的时尚版留级生也来写A&F,真是有些贻笑大方鸟。打肿脸撑胖子也要硬撑一下啊。[em62]


 


初识A&F是听到米国交流的同学说的,那时我还在国内,说貌似比较适合亚洲人的身材。左耳进右耳出,也没有印象。


真正让我认识A&F是上学年marketing课作的一个case,本来想翻箱倒柜挖出来参考一下,现在想起来那个是mid-term,交上去了,变成无米之炊了。


A&F的品牌定位变化太大,现在是美国年轻的扮酷装sexy的小p孩穿的,却曾在他们的爷爷一代风靡一时。


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-19 4:20:12编辑过]

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1. 品牌故事


 


Abercrombie & Fitch的历史:


原品牌定位:针对富有阶层为其提供打猎、钓鱼等户外活动服饰。


 


早在年1892年,David Abercrombie 这个来自Maryland的探险家,户外运动的狂热爱好者,在纽约曼哈顿建立了Abercrombie & Co.一家致力于高品质野营、狩猎、钓鱼用具的专营公司。当时的顾客主要是职业的猎人、探险家等等,许多教科书里的名人都爱用A&F的用具和衣服,罗斯福的非洲探险, Robert Peary 的北极考察,海明威的猎枪,胡佛和艾森豪维尔的钓具,影星克拉克盖博的衣服,都是由A&F来的。


 


在1900年一个名为Ezra Fitch的热爱户外活动的纽约律师成为了合伙人,他离开了律师行,带来了大笔的资金,于是公司更名为Abercrombie & Fitch Co. 极具行销天才的费奇 (Ezra Fitch) 先生将品牌名定为阿贝克隆比 & 费奇 (Abercrombie & Fitch) ,刻意让名字冗长、难念又难记,听起来很饶舌很酷。


 


Fitch开始着手进行经营创新。然而两位合伙人的经营理念大相径庭,Abercrombie 坚持A&F走专业户外运动的品牌路线,而Fitch则希望将其打造成为一个大众品牌。不出意料,这是一个恶梦般的合作,他们几乎很少有什么一致的意见,终于在1907年有一天Abercrombie受不了这无尽的争执,卖掉了他的股份离开了他一手建立的公司,不过AF的业绩丝毫没有收到影响,继续一路走高。


Mr. Fitch强调商店内部应该布置的如同野营场景一样,所有的用品都如同正在使用一般摆放出来而不是藏在精美的玻璃橱窗之后。他放置了一个脏脏的帐篷在中央,一堆篝火在店的一角燃烧,所有的售货员都是经验丰富的探险者,向来往的顾客讲述着他们自己的故事。直到今天公司仍然受着他的影响以麋鹿为商标。无疑他的这些策略都取得了巨大的成功,到1928年Fitch退休时A&F已经成为世界最大的运动用品公司之一。


 


..................................中间历史太长略去3000字。


之后的经营也是相当的成功,A&F保持了户外运动品牌的老大地位,并在全美开了十几家分店,但是六十年代公司的业绩收到经济萧条的影响每况愈下,终于在1977年难以为继的A&F宣告破产,被一个名为Oshman的运动用品零售商买下,不过A&F仍然在困境中挣扎毫无起色。

[upload=jpg,a&f founders.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087195532182406.jpg[/upload]

[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 19:31:38编辑过]

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闲话版介绍,摘自网上一位时尚达人:


 


1892年,一位名为david abercrombie的年轻人在new york city创立了david t. abercrombie 公司,公司专门销售高级户外活动和打猎用品. 他的客户都是一些有钱的,吃饱没事打打猎的大爷,其中一位最死忠的,也是一位成功的律师,就是 ezra fitch.


 


ezra fitch在过了很长的打官司生涯後觉得人生无趣,不如来去卖猎枪比较好玩.终於在1904年,他成功说服了不知道怎么拒绝的abercrombie,让他加入公司,从此公司名字从很难念的abercrombie变成又难念又长的abercrombie & fitch.


 


然而两人的结合有如婚姻一般,婚前事事好婚後没事也要吵.abercrombie的保守态度常常逼得想急速扩张的fitch捉狂. 1907年,abercrombie终於再也受不了,退出公司的经营. 不过fitch为了让公司名字看起来很饶舌很酷,决定保留前面 "阿婆狂批--abercrombie" 的部份(现在知道怎么念了吧?! :) ).


之後fitch终於可以趁心如意的扩张公司了,他一反所有东西都要整齐清洁的摆在橱柜的原则,店里的衣服袜子看起来都像用过两三次的样子,帐蓬也脏脏的,店的角落还升了一堆火. 这种风格到现在a&f都还保持著. 也因为打猎的背景,a&f标志就是一只麋鹿头.


 


那堆火升得好,结果店不但没被烧掉,还在纽约的第五大道开起了旗舰店. 店里开始卖男女运动服饰. 在1913年的纽约,a&f是第一家在new york city卖男女运动服饰的店. fitch 在钢筋水泥店家建筑的顶楼盖了一个木屋做为他自己的住所,店里还有渔池让客人试钓竿.


许多教科书里的名人都爱用a&f的用具和衣服,罗斯福的非洲探险,robert peary的北极考察,海明威的猎枪,胡佛和艾森豪的钓具,影星克拉克盖博的衣服,都是由a&f来的.在那几年,a&f成为世界最大的运动用品公司。


 


1928年经营的传奇fitch赚饱退休了,1960年公司开始走下坡,70年美国经济大萧条,a&f在1977年宣告破产,1992年由limited inc.公司买下并在1992年转型为服饰公司并由大学生破旧衣风格路线获得重大的成功.


 


[upload=jpg,history 1.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087196563112058.jpg[/upload]
[upload=jpg,history 2.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087196563150260.jpg[/upload]


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 19:34:46编辑过]

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小插曲Abercrombie & Fitch Co.还是美国第一家进口麻将的公司。当一位女顾客在寻找她曾经在中国玩过的麻将游戏后,Fitch马上到中国进口了麻将,还把规则翻译成了English.还派专员到中国城采购尽可能多的麻将,最后卖掉了超过12000幅。


 


想象一下你在看这样的Catalog[upload=jpg,af old catalog.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087195404839752.jpg[/upload]


 


50年代的Abercrombie & Fitch衬衫:还是很红很正阿。


[upload=jpg,50 red blouse.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087195504736998.jpg[/upload]


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-19 5:52:03编辑过]

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重生与崛起


 


转折发生在A&F再次被收购,新主子来头很大――The Limited Inc. (Now called Limited Brands),他的旗下还有成功经营的品牌如Express和Victoria's Secret。很快的A&F就重振了昔日雄风,只不过这次是以青少年服装品牌的形象出现的。九O年代是品牌复苏的关键期,明确的将客层设定在美国东岸高收入家庭的青少年及18-24岁的大学生,重新定义“casual luxury休闲-奢华”风格,生产多样化及高品质的商品-衬衫、吊带衫、迷你裙、工作短裤、羊毛衫、polo衫及T恤等基本款。在九十年代的中期已经有几十家分店在各地的高档mall里面出现。1996年开始在纽约股票市场上市,同时The Limited Inc.开始退出了对A&F的管理。从那时起,A&F店面的布置风格已经确定:一进门迎面可见的是一个巨大的麋鹿头像,里面灰色的墙上是他们招贴画,基本上都是裸露很多的年轻金发肌肉男。


 


2005年11月A&F完成了他们在纽约著名的第五大道上的旗舰店的建设,在附近环绕的是诸如Fendi, Prada, and Chanel这样的豪华用品店。如今A&F在全美已经有360家左右的分店,当然,正如其他连锁品牌国际化是必然的趋势,今年2006年初在加拿大开设了美国之外的首家分店,同时2007年进军欧洲和亚洲的计划也在紧锣密鼓的进行当中。


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 20:21:15编辑过]

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A&F帅哥背后的教父(右图):


 


1992年上任至今CHAIRMAN和CEO Mike Jeffries (63岁)将百年老公司塑造成针对年轻族群的高价位休闲服饰,产品特色强调性感、身体线条、广告煽情,完全颠覆保守内容,曾遭保守人士抗议,业绩一度滑落。但Mike Jeffries坚持理念,产品从不打折,甚至提高售价确保毛利,并塑造品牌形象。经过10年努力Jeffries终于把A&F流行、性感、叛逆形象深植人心,成为美国青少年爱用的品牌,王力宏、舒琪还有孙芸芸都是其粉丝。


 


Mike Jeffries ,哥伦比亚工商管理硕士MBA毕业,染了一投金发,每天穿破牛仔酷、夹脚拖鞋,但个性非常细心严谨。 Jeffries参与公司大小事,从海外扩店计划,到店内衣服折叠方式每一环节都要讲究。


 


A&F成功的秘诀就在于他们真正了解年轻市场的需求,CEO Mike Jeffries在《TIME Style & Design》的一篇访谈中就提到他雇用的员工跟他顾客的年轻层相仿,从设计、行销到商品企画都由这些他所谓的“Kids”所主导,「我们最大的不同点就是,开会时其他品牌的集思会议是讨论这些人会喜欢什么,而不是我喜欢什么?真实、准确就是我们的武器。」


 


Gap找来了美国HBO影集「欲望城市」的女主角Sara Jessica Parker代言创造了几十亿美元的漂亮业绩,这是名人提升品牌时髦形象的连锁效应。 A&F没有砸下重金礼聘闪亮巨星为他们发声,却找来名不经传的小人物担当模特儿,可能是邻家女孩或校园的风云人物甚至不起眼的书呆子,每段故事都是真实的人生,深入民心的广告形象引起网路上的广泛讨论,大家都想将自己的故事披露在A&F Magazine的扉页内,由摄影大师Bruce Weber掌镜,麻雀变凤凰不是电影的情节,而是活生生的实例。 2005年10月Abercrombie & Fitch的第三季财务报表显示,全美年度净销售业绩成长36%,相较前一年从12亿爬升至16亿3千多万美元,这个天文数字代表这头麋鹿不再是美洲大草原的过客,而是美国青少年的流行现象,A&F受欢迎的程度是超过大家所能想像的。

 

[upload=jpg,big heads.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/2008719861361481.jpg[/upload]
 


Bruce Weber(左图):不只是时尚界最重要的摄影师


 


是时尚界最重要、最具影响力的摄影师,成名于八○年代,合作对象包括Calvin Klein、Karl Lagerfeld、Gianni Versace、Ralph Lauren、Abercrombie & Fitch。他的摄影集是一种宣言,表达了拍摄者对时尚的定义与想法,「拍摄别人很棒的一点是,或许你无法解决世界上的问题,但至少你有了一颗想像的种子,种在你不复纯真的花园。」


 


除了他在时尚界的非凡成就外,他所运镜的手法及他独有的个性,都在他的作品中一览无遗。在Bruce Weber推出的新书中,你能感觉到跨越40个年头的流行写真所具备的价值,而结果便是带着幽默感的独特趣味。 「我在许多并非标榜着流行的东西上看见了时尚。我从来不喜欢你到了某个地点,然后只是一个劲的拍下一堆衣服,你知道吧!……」


 


除了在时尚上的作品,他为动物所拍的摄影集也深受人们喜爱。他一定是载满了对动物们的爱,才能够拍出那样的感人作品...


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-19 8:09:36编辑过]

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Lifestyle brand和不断的麻烦


 


A&F一直把他们定位成一种生活方式,一种休闲的令人向往的理念。精选的音乐震撼的在店里播放,令人蠢蠢欲动的A&F古龙香水弥漫四周,每个售货员都要精挑细选以做为brand representative-品牌代理-其实就是一种平民模特,通过他们来体现这种倡导的生活方式,这些孩子在20上下,个个非常运动、负有魅力、开放、有激情的外形让人难以忘怀。


 


不过在21世纪出公司的政策也招致了许多的批评,首先是有人状告在A&F发行的杂志上有同性恋和group sex的暗示和倾向,接着更大的麻烦来自他们的个性文化衫的文字有种族歧视的味道。最有名的这件体恤售价25美元,上面印着张漫画:一个斜眼、戴着圆锥形帽子的亚洲人,旁边印着口号,“黄氏兄弟洗衣店:两个黄能变成白”(WONG BROTHERS LAUNDRY SERVICE: TWO WONGS CAN MAKE IT WHITE)和“碗与球—中国饭与保龄球”(WOK-N-BOWL-CHINESE FOOD AND BOWLING)。可想而知会有多少亚裔团体起诉他们。不过AF好像丝毫没有吸取任何教训,接着又和整个弗吉尼亚州的人干上了,一件T-shirt是这样写的"It's All Relative in West Virginia." 这还不算完又一件胸前写着"Who needs a brain when you have these?"的女式T-shirt招来了妇女权益人士的不满。总之他们用他们的幽默来嘲笑各式各样的人。


 


大家慢慢都注意到了AF几乎都是白人的店员这样一个奇怪的现象,毫无疑问这在美国就足以使你出现在被告席上。相当多的少数民族报告在应聘过程中受到了不公正的待遇,被奇怪的理由据掉了。最后公司付出来四千万美元赔偿给那些被拒绝的有色人种应聘人。


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 5:42:51编辑过]

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歧视华人、亚裔:

 

最有名的这件体恤售价25美元,上面印着张漫画:一个斜眼,戴着圆锥形帽子的亚洲人,旁边印着口号, “黄氏兄弟洗衣店:两个黄能变成白” (黄兄弟洗衣服务: 2黄氏可以使白)和“碗与球-中国饭与保龄球” (碗与球—中国饭与保龄球)。[upload=jpg,discrim.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/200871911183853197.jpg[/upload]

 

“黄兄弟洗衣服务-二黄氏可以使白“主要是指当初华人移民美国时,很多教育程度不高的华人只能开洗衣店或是中国食品来维持生计,A&F以此为标语将之印在衣服上贩售(当时有出好几款,这只是其中一件)。“黄兄弟洗衣服务-二黄氏可以使白”就是在暗指黄种人(华人)都是在做洗衣店。试想,在美国如果如果店家敢在衣服上面印说黑人都是混帮派的,这家店大概很快就被砸,被放火了。同样的,A&F这系列衣服在2002年一推出来,马上引起全美国亚裔人士群集抗议,告上法庭。A&F被迫将这系列的衣服撤架,而且类似事件发生不止一次(第一次发生于2002年4月,而同样事件于2003年12月又再度发生) 。

[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 5:43:19编辑过]

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Parents say kid's thong is just plain wrong


Clothier selling skimpy skivvies for girls 10 and older


 


Calling it the "modern-day version of Underoos," a national clothing company is selling thong underwear in children's sizes - with the words "eye candy" and "wink wink"


 


Abercrombie & Fitch, the same retailer that enraged parents last year with a summer catalog of teenage-looking models groping each other and in the nude, now offers several varieties of thongs at its Abercrombie stores, the division of the company for children 7 to 14 years old.


 


It's cute and fun and sweet," said Hampton Carney, spokesman for the company based in New Albany, Ohio.


 


But some parents are far from tickled. In fact, they're outraged.


"I think of myself as fairly hip, and I think it's just disgusting," said Julie McNamara, a 40-year-old mother from Whitefish Bay.


 


The thongs, part of Abercrombie's summer line, sell for $7.50, or 3 for $15. Some have stripes, others are solid pink or blue. The solid-colored thongs have the words "eye candy" printed in a little pink heart and "wink wink" in a small green box.


 


The rearless underwear comes in sizes for girls ages 10 to 16. The smallest size - a medium - appears small enough to fit an even younger girl.


 


McNamara said she was livid when she stumbled upon the thongs while shopping for her three children at Bayshore Mall. She grabbed a pair and confronted a clerk at the register.


 


"I said, 'Will you tell me what this is?' They said, 'I know, I know, you're the fourth one today,' " McNamara said.


 


The flap over the thongs is not the first time that Abercrombie & Fitch has caused controversy for its edgy themes and designs.


 


Last year, the company caught ire from parents over its quarterly catalog, which was filled with models who appeared to be college age or younger in the nude, kissing and fondling each other.


 


The company defended its publication, calling it a celebration of a youthful and spirited yet responsible lifestyle.

[upload=jpg,abercrombie girl thong.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087200394529324.jpg[/upload]

[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 2:57:43编辑过]

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 很暴露-Revealing Abercrombie catalog sparks a boycott


 


The Associated Press and The Cincinnati Enquirer


 


Abercrombie & Fitch says its summer catalog is sexy in a wholesome sort of way: “Norman Rockwell of 2001.” Critics from conservative Christians to liberal feminists call it soft porn, and now they've joined forces to boycott the trendy, youth-oriented retailer.


 


By the standards of Penthouse or Hustler, the A&F Quarterly might seem tame. But it is displayed in tightly wrapped plastic, intended only for buyers 18 or older, and features young, unclad male and female models in what the company touts as “pictures hotter than a backyard barbecue.”


 


Abercrombie & Fitch spokesman Hampton Carney said the publication is as much a magazine as a catalog, targeted at the college market. But boycott organizers contend the company also is wooing younger customers and using sex to popularize its image.


 


Nora Rubinoff and her 17-year-old son, Brandon, shop at A&F. The West Chester mother says they were recently in the store but “didn't notice anything significant about the store's advertising.”


 


They both had heard rumors that the catalogs contained suggestive items but hadn't actually seen this summer's catalog.


 


“To be honest,” says Mrs. Rubinoff, “the few things he's purchased have been straight out of the store. He hasn't looked at the catalogs. He's 17 and, while I may not like it, how can I keep my son from seeing it? He gets more exposure to a lot of things I think are unnecessary. It's an unfortunate part of our culture. I do wonder why the A&F boycott when you can look at other companies and find things more objectionable. I don't approve of it, though.”


 


Illinois Lt. Gov. Corinne Wood — a Republican who has been sparring with A&F since 1999 — announced the boycott campaign last week in Chicago. She has recruited a diverse mix of supporters more familiar with facing off against each other than with working together.


 


The broad alliance “shows the importance of this issue,” said Michelle Dewlen, president of the Chicago chapter of the National Organization for Women. She faulted the catalog for promoting “unrealistic body types” and displaying images that evoked group sex.


 


The Rev. Bob Vanden Bosch, head of Concerned Christian Americans, said it was “quite unusual” to find himself allied with NOW. But he welcomed the coalition.


 


“The exploitation of sex and young people in A&F's catalog is not only atrocious but also a psychological molestation of their teen-age customers.”


 


Mr. Carney said Abercrombie & Fitch takes the criticism seriously but has no intention of changing the catalog.


 


“You have to be true to your customers — and their response is overwhelmingly positive,” he said. “There's nothing in it you don't see on any public beach in Miami.”


 


Circulation of the quarterly is about 300,000. Half go to subscribers; the rest sell at stores for $6 apiece.[upload=jpg,getimage.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087200524391386.jpg[/upload]


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 5:44:52编辑过]

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歧视女性,尤其是非金发的 (AMAZOMBIE AND BITCH)


 


Abercrombie Pulls Sexist Shirts


 


Nov. 8, 2005 -- A national "girlcott" of Abercrombie & Fitch has forced the clothing giant to pull two offensive T-shirts from its shelves.


By Carrie Kilman | Staff Writer, Tolerance.org


 


In response to growing outcry from young women and girls across the country, Abercrombie & Fitch agreed Friday to stop selling two T-shirts many have called offensive and sexist.


 


The clothing giant also agreed to meet face-to-face with a group of 23 Pennsylvania teens who organized the local-turned-national "girlcott" of A&F stores.


 


Those teens, members of the Women and Girls Foundation of Southwest Pennsylvania, felt "triumphant" after the announcement, said Heather Arnet (free registration required from the Chicago Tribune), the foundation's executive director.


 


Arnet negotiated the agreement with A&F officials. Afterward, the two sides released a joint statement: "We recognize that the shirts in question, while meant to be humorous, might be troubling to some," wrote A&F officials.


 


The two shirts removed as part of Friday's settlement contain the slogans, "Who Needs Brains When You Have These?" and "All Men Like Tig Old Bitties."


 


Arnet said those were the two deemed most offensive by the teen organizers. Other shirts in the same line include phrases like "Muck Fe," "I Had a Nightmare Last Night I Was a Brunette," and "Blondes Are Adored, Brunettes Are Ignored."


 


"We want to replace the old ones with better new ones," Alexis Papalia, 14, told the Chicago Tribune.


 


Papalia and other members of the Women and Girls Foundation are meeting this week to brainstorm ideas for new T-shirt slogans, to share with A&F officials when they meet later this month at the company's headquarters in Ohio.


 


[upload=jpg,af discrim female.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087202344723901.jpg[/upload]



[upload=jpg,17388_03_l.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087202063138691.jpg[/upload]


 


[upload=jpg,afshirt05-795481.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087202063157365.jpg[/upload]


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 20:07:30编辑过]

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种族歧视

 

Abercrombie & Fitch是一个相当保护白种人的牌子,以前还有内规:不会让非高加索长相的员工出现在店面里,以维持品牌的「格调」。现在虽然已经没有这个规定了,但是可以参阅相关新闻http://www.afjustice.com.

 

Abercrombie and Fitch Settles $40 Million Discrimination Suit

 


Civil rights attorneys today announced the settlement of a class action lawsuit, Gonzalez v. Abercrombie & Fitch, requiring the retail clothing giant to pay $40 million dollars to Latino, African American, Asian American and women applicants and employees who charged the company with discrimination.


 


The settlement, approved this morning by U.S. District Court Judge Susan Illston, also requires the company to institute a range of policies and programs to promote diversity among its workforce and to prevent discrimination based on race or gender.


 


The lawsuit was originally filed in U.S. District Court in San Francisco in June 2003 by the Mexican American Legal Defense and Educational Fund (MALDEF), the NAACP Legal Defense and Educational Fund (LDF), the Asian Pacific American Legal Center (APALC) and the law firm of Lieff, Cabraser, Heimann, & Bernstein, LLP, on behalf of nine young adults of color, including students and graduates of the University of California and Stanford, who were refused sales jobs or terminated based on their race or ethnicity.


 


"This agreement promises to transform this company, whose distinctiveness will no longer stem from an all-white image and workforce," stated Thomas A. Saenz, Vice President of Litigation at MALDEF. "This welcome change results from the courageous actions of the plaintiffs who, beginning five years ago, stepped forward to challenge prevalent discrimination at Abercrombie & Fitch." Saenz explained that the case began with the 1999 filing of a charge of discrimination by Juancarlos Gomez-Montejano.


The original plaintiffs were later joined by others across the country. During the course of the negotiations, the plaintiffs were also represented by the federal Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC), who validated their claims, as well as Minami, Lew & Tamaki LLP, and a team of eastern law firms led by Kohn, Swift & Graf, P.C. in Philadelphia.


 


Attorney Bill Lann Lee of Lieff, Cabraser, Heimann & Bernstein explained the breadth of the Consent Decree, which covers recruitment, hiring, job assignment, promotion and training of employees: "This comprehensive package of reforms will ensure that minority and women employees feel welcome. The company should get credit for agreeing to changes that will transform how Abercrombie does business," said Lee, who is the former Assistant Attorney General for Civil Rights at the U.S. Department of Justice.


 


The settlement requires the store to pursue "benchmarks" for the hiring and promotion of Latinos, African Americans, Asian Americans and women; the company must report on its progress toward these goals at regular intervals to the plaintiffs' attorneys and to a Special Master named by the court.


 


In addition, the company must hire 25 recruiters who will seek out minority employees. The company is barred from targeting particular fraternities or sororities for recruitment purposes, a practice that previously helped to ensure a predominantly white sales staff.


 


To ensure compliance with the provisions of the Consent Decree, the company will name a Vice President for Diversity, and provide diversity training for all employees with hiring authority. A new internal complaint procedure will provide employees with a mechanism to report any problems they face.


 


Abercrombie has more than 700 stores and a workforce of 22,000. The retail chain uses visual media to promote the "A&F Look" and image to employees, customers, and potential applicants. The settlement requires that marketing materials - including the posters, shopping bags and catalogue - include members of minority racial and ethnic groups.


 


"Abercrombie now realizes diversity makes good business sense," said Kimberly West-Faulcon, Director and Western Regional Counsel for the NAACP Legal Defense and Educational Fund. "We hope the rest of corporate America gets the message."


The settlement provides very detailed guidance and mechanisms for compliance. In addition, an appointed monitor will regularly evaluate and report on Abercrombie's compliance with the Decree. The Consent Decree will be in effect a minimum of four-and-a-half years; its duration will depend on the progress of the company.


 


If the settlement is properly implemented, the stories of the named plaintiffs will be a thing of the past, according to the attorneys.


Eduardo Gonzalez, a Stanford student from Hayward, California, was pleased with the settlement. "I remember how discouraged I felt when I applied for a job at the Santa Clara store and the manager suggested that I work in the stock room or on the late night crew in a non-sales position. I felt it was because I was a Latino - but there was no one I could report this to at the time."


 


Plaintiff Anthony Ocampo, a recent Stanford graduate, who was told he couldn't be hired because "there's already too many Filipinos," agreed with Gonzalez. "It is important that Abercrombie seek out employees of color and provide them training and opportunities for promotion."


 


Jennifer Lu worked at the Crystal Court Mall store in Costa Mesa, California for three years while she was a student at U.C. Irvine. She and five other Asian American employees were terminated after a visit from senior management and replaced with white sales staff. "I was very distressed after I was terminated for being an Asian American woman. I am now very excited about the policies and programs Abercrombie must implement that came about as a result of this lawsuit. I am looking forward to seeing a more diverse Abercrombie; one that actually reflects the look of America," said Lu.


 


Carla Grubb, an African American student at California State Bakersfield, was constructively discharged from the Abercrombie store in the Bakersfield Valley Plaza Mall after being assigned cleaning and other menial jobs. "I felt demoralized being the only African American employee and being specifically assigned to dust the store, wash the windows and clean the floors. With this settlement, I now know that Abercrombie cannot treat other employees of color in such a manner."


 


Minah Park, staff attorney with the Asian Pacific American Legal Center applauded the courage of the plaintiffs. "This case is an example of a handful of individuals making an impact in the struggle to end racial discrimination. Thanks to these plaintiffs who stepped forward to take action, we are going to see real change in Abercrombie stores nationwide," Park said.


 


Attorney Martin J. D'Urso of Kohn, Swift & Graf, P.C. explained that the monetary awards to the class members will be based on the number of claimants who come forward and the kind of discrimination they faced: "The true value of this settlement goes far beyond the money being paid to class members. The changes that are being made, pursuant to the consent decree, will help to transform Abercrombie into the type of company that, I believe, its customers want and the law demands."


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 2:58:45编辑过]

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Obama门事件


 


ABERCROMBIE & FITCH & OBAMA


 


DRESSED FOR SUCCESS: Three mystery men — clad in Abercrombie & Fitch garb — stand behind Barack Obama during Tuesday's nationally televised speech.


 


Barack Obama didn't fare so well Tuesday night, but Abercrombie & Fitch sure did.


 


As Obama delivered his nationally televised Pennsylvania concession speech before a cheering crowd in Evansville, Ind., viewers couldn't miss three unidentified young men - all sporting T-shirts with huge Abercrombie & Fitch logos - standing directly behind the candidate.


The huge white "Fitch" lettering on one of the shirts screamed so loudly that it dwarfed the signs touting Obama's "Change" slogan.


The Web lit up, with a number of blogs wondering whether it was a college prank or a paid-for product placement.


One site, shoppingblog.com, jokingly dubbed it "Fitchgate."


 


Elsewhere on the Internet, a visitor to the Yahoo! Answers site asked, "Are they giving Obama money for this advertisement?"


Even MSNBC commentator Keith Olbermann remarked, "If you have the sudden desire to go out and buy a fleece, it's probably because of the product placement."


 


An Abercrombie & Fitch spokesman said the placement was nothing more than coincidence, although he acknowledged fielding several calls from friends, relatives and an investor wondering the same thing. "We don't pursue product placement as a company at all," said spokesman Thomas Lennox.


 


That isn't to say that the retailer doesn't appreciate the free publicity.


"Thanks to the Obama campaign for the great product placement," Lennox said. "We wish we had thought of it."


The Obama camp also denied any paid sponsorship from the company. Indeed, campaign finance records list just one individual donation from an Abercrombie & Fitch employee, for $500.

[upload=jpg,obama & a& f.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/2008720353581835.jpg[/upload]

[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 3:06:06编辑过]

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兄弟品牌


 


在上个世纪末取得巨大成功后,又推出了几个针对不同年龄段的新品牌,原来的AF面向18~22岁的大学生群体,Abercrombie kisd面对7~14岁的孩子,这几乎完全是小一号的AF。Hollister面向15~18岁的学生,Hollister力求体现出一种加州海滩冲浪风格,不过样式和材质均比AF差一个档次,相应的价格也低一些。最后就是面向已经工作的22~30出头的人群的RUEHL(发音如同rule),尤其是那些从九十年代起就伴随着AF一起成长的青年消费者们,它的风格更加成熟,质地也是比AF再上了一层楼,自然价格也是相应的增加了许多。更加奇怪的是RUEHL毫无在网络销售的意思,专卖店全美也才十几家而已。


 


就是连AF自己也有逐年趋向成熟的味道,体现在推出的Ezra Fitch系列就是超过22岁的顾客,大概商家本身预计到年龄越大就越有钱吧。




































Name


Consumer age target


Slogan


Logo


Description


abercrombie kids


preteens, 7 through 14


"classic cool".



The a92 navy Moose


Children's version of Abercrombie & Fitch. Uses blue (against the A&F gray), blasts music from young artists, and spells marketing trademarks all-lowercase.


Hollister Co.


Teenagers, 14 through 18


"So Cal"



The HCO Flying Seagull


For high-schoolers, Hollister is moderately priced compared to its parent brand. The brand's stores resemble surf shacks with dim lighting, and blast rock music. It is also the first of these brands to offer a personal body care line.


RUEHL No.925


Post-collegiate, 22 through 35


"Greenwich Village"



The R925 French bulldog, Trubble


With the highest price range among A&F brands, RUEHL is targeted towards older customers. This is the first brand to offer genuine leather purses and bags for women.


Gilly Hicks: Sydney


Women, 18 and up


Down Under


The GH Koala


Gilly Hicks is the latest brand from Abercrombie & Fitch and opened January 21, 2008. It offers underwear and loungewear marketed towards the A&F collegiate female. [47]



[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 3:10:06编辑过]

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2. 大致价位和购物策略


 


A&F 原价真是贵,不仅我们觉得贵,在加拿大、英国更贵。在产品线和顾客群相似的品牌中处于价格的高端。


以下是英国消费者抱怨价格贵:


 


The trendy US gear that costs double over here


 


http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-446004/The-trendy-US-gear-costs-double-here.html


 


 


A&F 很高调,从来不会大幅宣传xx% off, 从来没有coupon。爱买不买:要不买原价,要不买clearance. Clearance 的柜台总是在里面最角落的地方,上面有很小的一行clearance 字样。像我这样的近视眼在A&F店内昏暗的灯光下,几乎很难找到阿。


 


[upload=jpg,trendy us gear costs double in uk.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087203594276363.jpg[/upload]


  


今日网站价格数据统计:


 















































































































































Item


Regular


Clearance


Low


High


Low


High


TANKS


19.5


49.5


6.9


29.9


KNITS


29.5


44.5


12.9


29.9


TEES


24.5


49.5


15.9


19.9


POLOS


39.5


49.5


19.9


29.9


SHIRTS


69.5


69.5


29.9


29.9


DRESSES


49.5


49.5




FLEECE


59.5


69.5


29.9


29.9


SWEATERS


49.5


69.5


29.9


29.9


TWILL SHORTS


39.5


49.5




DENIM SHORTS


49.5


59.5




ACTIVE SHORTS


29.5


39.5


12.9


19.9


SKIRTS


59.5


59.5


12.9


29.9


JEANS


79.5


99.5


38.9


38.9


TWILL PANTS


59.5


69.5


29.9


29.9


FLEECE PANTS


49.5


49.5


29.9


29.9


CROPS


69.5


69.5




CLASSIC SCARVES


39.5


39.5


18.9


39.9


RUBBER FLIP FLOPS


19.5


29.5


15.9


19.9


LEATHER FLIP FLOPS


39.5


49.5


19.9


19.9


TOTES


59.5


79.5


29.9


29.9


OUTERWEAR


128


128




PERFUME


34.5


49.5




[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 4:14:23编辑过]

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3. 购物指南


 


1. 捡白菜,经常去逛,看到clearance的好东西立马抢回来(需要年富力强,时间充沛)


 


2.去outlet, clearance store:


 


Tanger Outlets:


Commerce, Georgia  • (706) 423-9395
Hilton Head, South Carolina  • (843) 836-5771
Rehoboth Beach, Delaware  • (302) 227-8480
Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin  • (608) 254-4986


 


Prime Outlets里没有A&F


 


3.代购


 


4.  网上买gift card, 用gift card 买


 


5.换班和EBAY抢白菜 (要手明眼快,身手矫健)


 


6.  sample sales (概率较小)


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 4:16:20编辑过]

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4.实物图片


 



港台明星穿A&F

[upload=jpg,copy of untitled.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/2008720673817065.jpg[/upload]
[upload=jpg,zhang & liu.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/2008720673899607.jpg[/upload]


[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 6:09:50编辑过]

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韩国明星们穿A&F


 


宋惠乔和Rain老是撞衫[em65]


    群众的眼睛是雪亮地  [em230]


 


 

[upload=jpg,s_afm_cc5b9f6.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087206134082417.jpg[/upload]
[upload=jpg,slipperfb0-1.jpg]UploadFile/2008-7/20087206134018874.jpg[/upload]

[此贴子已经被作者于2008-7-20 19:43:23编辑过]

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