我来加一些买suit要注意的地方。

第一身suit,要保证

1。样式保守。没有花边，明显的花纹（国内买的多数都不合格）。1-3个扣子都可以。navy or black solid colors...matte finish (not shiny)。另外，经常有人问上衣裤子的黑色不配套怎么样。答案是，买的时候不要图省钱分着买。投资一下子，保证是一身的衣服。黑色不同穿在一起，眼睛尖的一下子就能看出来。尽量避免。

2。材料：轻薄的羊毛为最好。冬夏都可以穿，和室内的温度比较配合。有些混纺的也可以。购买的时候用手抓紧一些材料，如果松手以后有很多折子，不要买。

3。最好穿着面试用的衬衫佩suit. 我买的theory的西装，样子很好，剪裁也很服帖。可是当我用jcrew的衬衫佩的时候，发现衬衫总是不服帖。后来发现，jcrew得衬衫袖筒（armholes - 肩膀和袖子相接的地方）很宽，而剪裁好一些的西装，袖管是很细的。所以jcrew得衬衫不合适。后来换了PINK的衬衫，解决了问题。

4。小号mm买西装的问题。benetton, AT petitite都有小号的.ArdenB据说也不错。theory 00号也很好，但是零售价比较贵，如果可能的话，去附近的premium outlet购买。BR,Jcrew的裤子这几年越做越大，我本人不推荐。另外br,jcrew的西装上衣的一个问题（个人意见）：后背很大。亚洲人不那么虎背熊腰，所以后背会有多余的材料。挑剔的mm这一点会觉得不满意。不过一般的裁缝可以解决这样子的问题。只要肩膀合适就行了。腰身比较好收。

5。裁缝。要买到100%不用改动还合适的西装是很困难的。所以下面例举了一些容易修改的地方，如果这些地方不太合适，也可以买来让裁缝改。

length of the pants: shorten it is very easy..you can even DIY. cost $10-$20

length of the sleeves: most of them are easy to shorten. note: if there are buttons on sleeves, make sure there are at least two left after the sleeves are shortened. or the tailor needs to do more job to move the buttons...and it costs more.

waist of the jacket: assuming there are two darts on the back...it's very easy to make the waist more fitted. cost $30 and up

Waist of the pants: most of them are easy to be taken in. ask the tailor in store to take a look at the construction. normally costs $20-50 depending on the construction.

waist of the skirts: similar to pants. if there are existing darts, alteration is very easy. if not, the tailor needs to take it apart from the sides. costs: $15 and up.

The parts you don't want to touch: shoulders. It's very difficult to put them together again with the original look no matter how good a tailor is. this part is very tricy,so if the shoulders don't fit, move on.

make sure you can say no to a tailor. If he/she does a lousy job, tell him/her that you are not satisfied and he/she needs to fix it (and point out the problems).

Include the alteration cost in your budget. alteration is very expensive. some stores offer free alteration and make sure you take advantage of it. Buy suits ahead as alteration normally takes 1 wk to 2 months.

(sorry about English...my Chinese typing is way toooo slow...:-( )

[此贴子已经被作者于2006-7-9 19:47:25编辑过]