自己调制香水一直是我的梦想，从图书馆借了这本书与大家分享。。。

 Proportions for fragrance products

Odor intensity: 1-lightest  5-strongest

Top notes：the fastest evaporation oils, hit the nose first, then quickly dissipate, can last on body as long as 30minutes, can make up 5-20% of your blend, used to stimulate and uplift the spirit

orange 1, lemon 2, bergamot 2, grapefruit 2, lime 3, lemongrass 4

Middle to top notes：

ambrette 3, bay 3, palmarosa 3, angelica 4, basil 4

Middle notes: also called bouquet or heart notes, the main body of a blend, creating soothing, softer tones or harmonizing top and base notes, last as long as 3 hours after appication, can make up 50-80% of a blend, having harmonizing and balancing actions

carrot seed 2, fir 2, lavender 2, coriander 3, geranium 3, helichrysum 3, juniper 3, marjoram 3, neroli 3, german chamomile 4, pepper 3, rosemary 3, cardamom 4, roman chamomile 4, ginger 4, nutmeg 4, peppermint 5, cinnamon 5

Middle to base notes：

clary sage 3, rose 3, ylang ylang 5

Base notes：also referred to as dry or dond notes, provide a deep, warm, sensuous quality, give a blend tenacity, function as fixatives, holding back the evaporation of top notes, they are not very pleasant when used alone, last 3-4 hours, make up 5-10% of total blend, but if base note is pleasing, you can use up to 20%, base notes may relieve anxiety, stress, impatience and insomnia

cedar 3, frankincense 3, sandalwood 3, jasmine 4, patchouli 4, vanila 4, spikenard 5, vetiver 5

[此贴子已经被作者于2006-6-6 14:27:42编辑过]

Lesson 1 nose exercise: the essential oil that fall into these categories have some similar qualities, you may include only one or two in you blend

Anisic: licorice -like: anise, fennel, basil

-high odor intensity, mix well with citrus oil or woods

Balsamic: sweet, warm, soft, earthy odors: vetiver, sandalwood, cedar

-can be used alone or as base note

Camphoraceous: clean, fresh, medicinal: rosemary, lavender, eucalyptus

-used in therapeutic blend, give gragrance a sharp edge

Citrus: uplifting, fresh, cook, clear: bergamot, orange, lime, lemongrass, grapefruit

-can be used as top note, works well with floral

-popular in after shave ingredients

Floral: fresh, spring-like, sometimes herbaceous: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang

-can be used alone for feminine fragrance

Forestlike: wet, mossy, woodsy scents: fir, pine, spruce

-provide clean, fresh note to any blend, good for respiratiory system

Green: fresh, light and grassy: lavender, chamomile, geranium

-like new-mown hay

Powdery: light, dry, faint: vanilla, sandalwood

-dry-out note, nice in women or childern's blend, help sleep and instil safety and security

Resinous: buttery, soft, deep: frankincense, myrrh, cistus, benzion

-these base notes will add depth to any blend

-help heal the skin and wounds of the soul, wonderful for use in spiritual ceremony 

Spicy: hot, sweet, sharp: cinnamon, ginger, dove, cardamon, nutmeg, pepper

-a very small quantity goes a long way, check for skin reactions, diluted them in jojoba oil before test on skin

-popular in men's colognes, holiday products

 Lesson 2 start with three drops of the first oil, two of the second of and one of the third, keep notes on how the scent progresses as you blend in each additional drop.

1. orange, german chamomile, cardamom

2. fir, orange, cedar

3. lemongrass, patchouli, ylang ylang

4. grapefruit, lavender, geranium

5. frankincense, fir, orange

6. bergamot, vanilla, angelica

7. sandalwood, lavender, vanilla

8. bergamot, carrot, jasmine

9. fir, rosemary, bergamot

10. neroli, geranium, roman chamomile

11. sandalwood, ambrette, vetiver

12. rose, geranium, helichrysum

13. lavender, clary sage, marjoram

14. frankincense, lavender, jasmine

15. coriander, orange, spikenard

16. rosemary, cedar, palmarosa

17. bergamot, sandalwood, clary sage

[此贴子已经被作者于2006-6-6 14:35:34编辑过]

***All essential oils used are extracted by distillation, with the exception of jasmine and vanilla, which are ablosutes made by solvent extraction. For the recipes containing rose essential oil, either rose otto or rose absolute may be used.

Floral and seductive, wonderful in mist for body or bed linens

Don't be shy： 12D orange, 8D sandalwood, 5D rose, 2D neroli

Wild about you：18D grapefruit, 6D jasmine, 3D carrot, 1D ambrette

An inexpensive rose perfume with soft undertones, add this blend to one ounce of grain alcohole and three ounces of distilled water for a refreshing body splash

Rose essence ：6D rose, 4D geranium, 3D sandalwood, 2D lemon, 1D coriander

Nursing a broden heart? this is just the thing for a comforting scent with a bit of psychic protection, add this to you after bath oil to allay anxiety

Heart guard：8D orange, 4D rose, 1D ylang-ylang, 1D spikenard, 1D chamomile roman

This clean blend combines several scent categories. It is sweet, earthy, and floral

Simple delight：15D orange, 6D frankincense, 2D atlas ceder, 2D jasmine

The next two perfume blends are suitable for first fragrances for an adolescent girl. The first is warm and magical, the second fresh and sassy.

Suger and spice：10D FCF bergamot, 5D geranium, 2D vanilla, 1D roman chamomile, 1D cardamom

Everything nice：8D lavender, 5D grapefruit, 3D orange, 1D ylang-ylang, 1D cinnamon leaf

This blend is smooth, sweet, and delicate, The dry-out note lingers, soft and haunting.

Angel's whisper: 4D orange, 2D angelica, 2D jasmine, 1D vetiver, 1D patchouli

Sweet and dreamy, extra creamy, the name of this concoction says it all.

Vanilla caramel spice: 10D orange, 5D vanilla, 2D vetiver, 1D cinnamon leaf, 1D cardamom

This blend of essences enhances theholiday spirit and makes a wonderful room mist. You can mix it into a spritz and spray the Christmas tree to keep that fresh, evergreen scent throughout the holiday weeks(not to mention helping keep your tree moist)

Yuletide spirit mist: 15D fir, 10D orange, 4D frankincense, 3D bay laurel, 3D rosemary, 2D atlas cedar, 2D vanilla, 1D peppermint, 1D cinnamon

This scent carries sultry, smoky whiffs of the orient. It is popular with both men and women.

Indochine: 15D orange, 10D sandalwood, 10D vanilla, 6D coriander, 5D jasmine, 3D vetiver, 1Dangelica

Ancient and primitive, this uplifting, woodsy scent will connect you to nature, even in the city. It makes a wonderful blend to use in an aromatherapy diffuser.

Incense cedar: 8D coriander, 6D fir, 5D atlas cedar, 5D grapefruit, 4D frankincense, 4D rosemary, 2D lemon, 2D vetiver, 2 D spikenard, 1D roman chamomile

Breathe in the ancient wisdom of the forest, spicy, brisk, crisp, and clean. Take a whiff for an instant get-away at your desk.

Forest: 10D fir, 8D orange, 4D helichrysum, 3D bay laurel, 3D sandalwood, 2D coriander, 2D juniper, 1D rose absolute, 1D atlas cedar

The name alludes to the ingredients in this blend that have reputed aphrodisiacal qualities. Try this one on your next date-it ould ignite some flames of desire!

Permission: 15D bergamont, 6D rose absolute, 5D jasmine, 4D coriander, 3D patchouli, 2D frankincense, 2D vetiver, 2D helichrysum, 2D clary sage, 1D nutmeg

This scent is sweet and tropical with a hit of spice. Close your eyes, inhale, and escape to the islands.

Summer breeze: 5D orange, 4D lime, 4D vanilla, 2D neroli, 2D ylang ylang, 1D cardamom, 1D ginger

Depressed, dragged out, stressed out, need a little serenity in your life? Five to ten drops of this blend in a relaxing bath and your cares will melt away.

Restoration: 10D sandalwood, 7D bergamot, 3D clary sage, 2D ylang ylang, 1D nutmeg

Enchanting, subtle, unobtrusive, a blend that evokes the hushed silence of an undiscovered temple.

Egyptian spice: 7D coriander, 4D sandalwood, 3D lime, 3D orange, 2D lavender, 2D vitiver, 1D spikenard, 1D lemongrass, 1D rosemary

A classic scent, fresh and uplifting. Eau de cologne has always traditionally been made as an alcohol spash. Remember that such alcohol-based scents once doubled as medicine? In deed, I once used this blend, diluted with grain alcohol and water, as a throat gargle with great success. None of the ingredients is toxic, and the rise left my mouth freshly clean.

Eau de cologne: 8D geranium, 5D neroli, 6D lavender, 5D rosemary, 4D lime, 4D bergamot, 2D rose absolute, 2D petitgrain, 2D orange, 2D lemon, 2D palmarosa

Floal oils make this a jouous blend, suitable diluted as a bath or body oil for a pregnant woman after the first frimester. All the oils are safe and non-toxic, simple add 10 to d15 drops of the blend to two ounces of vegetable oil for a massage oil, or add 5 to 10 drops to a bath . Do not expose skin to sunlight after applying, the bergamot oil is photosensitizing.

Eau de Flessr: 7D lavender, 5D bergamot, 3D rose otto, 3D neroli, 3D sandalwood, 2D jasmine, 1D roman chamomile, 1D ylang ylang

A fantasy fragrance. This one is attentive, enlightened, aware, regenerating, good at unlocking hidden mysteries. Try it in sesame oil for massage.

Arabian nights: 4D patchouli, 4D geranium, 3D frankincense, 3D rose, 3D sandalwood, 2D marjoram, 2D lemon, 2D spikenard, 1D ambrette

The soul yearns for chocolate. It contains sphenylethylamine, a chemical produced in the brain when one is in love. You may find this scent a good substitute for a double fudge brownie.

Chocolate eclipse: 5D german chamomile, 5D vanilla, 2D lavender, 2D orange, 2D vetiver, 1D roman chamomile, 1Dpatchouli

This scent should evoke the journies of Marco polo, whose daring explorations revealed the shources of many exotic fragrences to the western world.

China road: 8D frankincense, 6D marjoram, 5D sandalwood, 2D palmarosa, 2D clary sage, 1D pepper, 1D ambrette, 1D angelica, 1D ginger

Smooth and fresh, yet masculine, aware, and powerful, This blend exudes a presence without being overwhelming

Blue velvet: 10D sandalwood, 5D neroli, 3D carrot, 2D clary sage, 2D rosemary, 1D basil, 1D lemongrass, 1D fir, 1D palmarosa

Use this scent to awaken your compassion and your open, loving nature, Diluted into a massage oil, the blend is wonderful for sensual massage, and can help lovers evoke a connection on a higher spiritual plane.

Tantra: 10D orange, 5D coriander, 5D rose, 3D helichrysum, 3D lavender, 2D geranium, 2D frankincense, 1D cardamomm

I like this combination for easing physical and psychological symptoms of PMS or menopause. Massage this blend, diluted in vegetable oik, around the abdomen and hip area, or add eight drops to the bath and soak your troubles awaw.

Moon time balance: 10D lavender, 5D geranium, 5D marjoram, 3D grapefruit, 3D clary sage, 3D rose, 1D ginger, 1D ylang ylang

This is goddess power, clear, subtle, strong, and secure. A luminous blend of sweet, woodsy, and floral oils to inspire wisdom.

Athena: 6D grapefruit, 5D rose, 4D carrot, 4D sandalwood, 2D jasmine, 2D atlas cedar, 2D rosemary

This fresh and inspiring blend helps promote a beautiful complexion for any skin type. You can add sic to ten drops to an ounce of unscented face or body lotion.

Lily milk: 5D helichrysum, 5D lavender, 3D sandalwood, 3D neroli, 3D carrot, 3D geranium, 2D roman chamomile, 2D jasmine, 1D palmarosa, 1D ylang ylang

Inspired by the center of the earth and the depths of antiquity: a fragrance that seems to last forever.

Amber Unguent: 9D sandalwood, 6D frankincense,  3D vanilla, 3D jasmine, 2D atlas cedar, 2D vetiver, 2D spikenard, 1D ambretter, 1D nutmeg

Elemental blends

Earth： to help establish and enhance inner strength and establish spiritual and physical grounding, to increase prosperity , to develop patience, represents the energies of the north

4D cedar, 4D vanilla, 4D juniper, 2D frankincense, 2D jasmine, 2D orange, 1D vetiver

Fire：to help increase strength and the masculine energies, establish power and warior spirit, foster sexual balance, break ties with the past, invoke protection and courage. represent the energies of the south

6D orange, 3D rosemary, 2D pepper, 1D basil, 1D marjoram, 1D lime, 1D cinnamon

Water：to help balance the feminine energies, establish a calm emotional balance, increase love, healing, and psychic awareness, invoke spiritual wisdom. represent the energies of the west

6D geranium, 4D sandalwood, 2D german chamomile, 2D roman chamomile, 2D ylang ylang

Air： to help stimulate the conscious mind, increase communication and intelligence, and overcome addictions, represent the energies of the east

8D lavender, 4D fir, 2D peppermint, 2D helichrysum, 2D clary sage

[此贴子已经被作者于2006-6-5 18:48:39编辑过]

谢谢mooi mm. 最近也想把手头的精油按照top, middle, base来分一下类， 然后试试不同的组合。 看到这个帖子真是太好了。 mm要多多分享试验成功的配方呀。 现在觉得比例很难掌握阿， 搞不好，就被一种精油的香气独占了。 那天搞了个有ylang ylang的， 结果调出来只有他的味儿， 其他的都给盖住了呢。

我也现学现卖阿，ylang ylang 的odor intensity是 5， 最强的，所以应该就放1 滴

我也调过怪味护肤液，不讲究的lg都不爱用呢