AHAs and vitamin C products
The distinctions between alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin C can be confusing because both make very similar claims. In reality, however, they are very different, and while each serves a unique purpose, there is no guarantee that either of them will actually have any effect on your skin.
Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs as they're commonly known, are found in everything from cleansers to night creams. Derived from various sources like sugar cane, milk and fruits, these acids retexturise skin by gently exfoliating the dry, dead outermost layers of skin while moisturising the newly revealed layers. AHAs are thought to be beneficial to complexions that have started to look dull, dry or flaky because it's believed they help give skin a new 'glow'. However, cynics claim that the exfoliation achieved by AHAs can also be effected by a quick scrub of the face with a flannel.
While the term AHA is widely used, there are actually various types of acids designed to achieve different results:
Glycolic acid is the most common type of acid used in skincare. Derived from the sugar cane plant, it is used primarily in chemical peels and serums because it has the strongest exfoliation properties.
Lactic acid, which comes from sour milk, has intense hydrating properties and is commonly found in moisturisers. Legend says that Cleopatra took advantage of lactic acid's benefits by regularly indulging in sour milk baths.
Salicylic acid is actually not an AHA. In fact, this acid (derived from willow bark) is considered a beta hydroxy acid because it works deeper in the skin to unclog pores and reduce fine lines. This acid is a great option for oily- and acne-prone skin.
While AHAs are exfoliants, vitamin C is a natural antioxidant that fights free radicals.
Skin is constantly assaulted by free radicals, or molecules formed in the skin when it is exposed to pollution or other environmental factors, like smoke or sunlight. Free radicals break down the collagen and elastin found in skin, which are essential for keeping skin firm and healthy. Vitamin C is thought to strengthen collagen and elastin in the dermis (the deepest layers of the skin) that has been damaged by free radicals.
While vitamin C may be effective, it loses its potency very quickly, which can make its presence in products worthless if not used immediately. There are many derivatives of vitamin C found in products, and studies have shown that the ingredient is most stable and effective in its L-ascorbic acid form (look for this name on the ingredients label). Packaging is important, too, as vitamin C can oxidise very quickly when exposed to air and light. If you're buying a product that contains vitamin C, look for one in an airtight brown glass bottle or metal tube, which will screen out light and prevent air from seeping in and breaking down the vitamin. Be sure to always secure the cap tightly and store it a cool, dark place to prolong its shelf life.
Both AHAs and vitamin C may help reduce signs of ageing, but it's thought you may see optimum results faster if you use them in conjunction with each other. If your skin is dry, use a vitamin C cream or serum in the morning under your regular moisturiser and an AHA-based cream at night. If you have oily or combination skin, an AHA or salicylic acid cleanser or toner is believed to work best in the morning, followed by a vitamin C serum at night.
The distinctions between alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin C can be confusing because both make very similar claims. In reality, however, they are very different, and while each serves a unique purpose, there is no guarantee that either of them will actually have any effect on your skin.
Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs as they're commonly known, are found in everything from cleansers to night creams. Derived from various sources like sugar cane, milk and fruits, these acids retexturise skin by gently exfoliating the dry, dead outermost layers of skin while moisturising the newly revealed layers. AHAs are thought to be beneficial to complexions that have started to look dull, dry or flaky because it's believed they help give skin a new 'glow'. However, cynics claim that the exfoliation achieved by AHAs can also be effected by a quick scrub of the face with a flannel.
While the term AHA is widely used, there are actually various types of acids designed to achieve different results:
Glycolic acid is the most common type of acid used in skincare. Derived from the sugar cane plant, it is used primarily in chemical peels and serums because it has the strongest exfoliation properties.
Lactic acid, which comes from sour milk, has intense hydrating properties and is commonly found in moisturisers. Legend says that Cleopatra took advantage of lactic acid's benefits by regularly indulging in sour milk baths.
Salicylic acid is actually not an AHA. In fact, this acid (derived from willow bark) is considered a beta hydroxy acid because it works deeper in the skin to unclog pores and reduce fine lines. This acid is a great option for oily- and acne-prone skin.
While AHAs are exfoliants, vitamin C is a natural antioxidant that fights free radicals.
Skin is constantly assaulted by free radicals, or molecules formed in the skin when it is exposed to pollution or other environmental factors, like smoke or sunlight. Free radicals break down the collagen and elastin found in skin, which are essential for keeping skin firm and healthy. Vitamin C is thought to strengthen collagen and elastin in the dermis (the deepest layers of the skin) that has been damaged by free radicals.
While vitamin C may be effective, it loses its potency very quickly, which can make its presence in products worthless if not used immediately. There are many derivatives of vitamin C found in products, and studies have shown that the ingredient is most stable and effective in its L-ascorbic acid form (look for this name on the ingredients label). Packaging is important, too, as vitamin C can oxidise very quickly when exposed to air and light. If you're buying a product that contains vitamin C, look for one in an airtight brown glass bottle or metal tube, which will screen out light and prevent air from seeping in and breaking down the vitamin. Be sure to always secure the cap tightly and store it a cool, dark place to prolong its shelf life.
Both AHAs and vitamin C may help reduce signs of ageing, but it's thought you may see optimum results faster if you use them in conjunction with each other. If your skin is dry, use a vitamin C cream or serum in the morning under your regular moisturiser and an AHA-based cream at night. If you have oily or combination skin, an AHA or salicylic acid cleanser or toner is believed to work best in the morning, followed by a vitamin C serum at night.
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